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Last checked: October 2026

Where to Eat in Matsumoto (Nagano): Horse Sashimi, Insects, a Wine Course and Breakfast at 5 Places I've Tried

Quick answer

  • Matsumoto (Nagano) is known for basashi (horse sashimi) and sanzokuyaki (garlic-soy fried chicken); Shinshu Sakaba Yamazato serves both, plus wild game and insect dishes, from 16:00 to 22:30.
  • Izakaya Shinzan near Matsumoto Station closes for good on December 26, 2026; for a special night, San serves a 7-course omakase with wine, booked on TableCheck.
  • Next morning: breakfast curry at Garden Hotel Matsumoto, or breakfast at the Imai Megumi no Sato roadside station from 8:30 to 10:00.
A wooden board of horse sashimi in several cuts, from deep red lean meat to pale marbled slices, with shiso leaves and grated garlic and ginger
A platter of basashi (horse sashimi) at Shinshu Sakaba Yamazato, Matsumoto (Nagano), August 2024. Photo taken by the site owner.Photo: the site owner · All rights reserved · Photo details

Matsumoto (Nagano) is best known for its castle, but its food is a good reason to stay the night. Horse sashimi (basashi), sanzokuyaki fried chicken and Shinshu soba are the local classics, and a few izakaya (Japanese pubs) still serve old mountain foods such as grasshoppers and river insects. This guide follows one evening and the next morning through five places the site owner has eaten at himself: two izakaya near Matsumoto Station, a wine-and-omakase restaurant, a hotel breakfast curry and a roadside-station breakfast, plus a bowl of ramen to end the night. Hours, prices and booking rules come from each place's own pages (checked October 24, 2026).

  • First-timer pick: Shinshu Sakaba Yamazato, for basashi, sanzokuyaki, wild game and, if you're curious, insect dishes. Open 16:00 to 22:30.
  • Closing soon: Izakaya Shinzan, open since 1980, closes for good on December 26, 2026. Go before then.
  • For a special night: San, a 7-course omakase (chef's choice) with wine. Book on TableCheck, which has an English page; it doesn't take bookings by Instagram message.
  • End of the night: creamy chicken ramen at Watari-dori, near the two izakaya.
  • The next morning: breakfast curry at Garden Hotel Matsumoto, or a set breakfast at the Imai Megumi no Sato roadside station (8:30 to 10:00).

Plan your evening and the next morning

All three dinner places are in Chuo, in the center of Matsumoto (Nagano), and the two izakaya are about a 3-minute walk from Matsumoto Station, so you can pick one for dinner and still walk to ramen afterwards. The two breakfasts are outside the center and are easiest by car.

One evening and the next morning in Matsumoto (Nagano) A food plan for one evening and the next morning in Matsumoto (Nagano) Evening, pick one dinner. Yamazato opens at 16:00 and closes at 22:30: horse sashimi, sanzokuyaki, wild game and insects. Shinzan opens at 17:00 and closes for good on December 26, 2026. San opens at 18:00: a 7-course omakase with wine, booked ahead on TableCheck. Late at night: ramen at Watari-dori. Next morning: breakfast curry at Garden Hotel Matsumoto, added at check-in, or breakfast at the Imai Megumi no Sato roadside station from 8:30 to 10:00. Evening: pick one dinner 16:00 YamazatoBasashi, sanzokuyaki, wild game, insects 17:00 ShinzanGentle home-style izakaya food Last day: Dec 26, 2026 18:00 San7-course omakase with wineBook ahead on TableCheck Late night Ramen at Watari-doriCreamy chicken broth Next morning Garden Hotel MatsumotoBreakfast curry, added at check-in Or Imai roadside station, 8:30-10:00
Opening times from each place's official pages and listings (checked October 24, 2026). Closing days differ by place, so check before you go.

Shinshu Sakaba Yamazato: local classics, wild game and insects

Shinshu Sakaba Yamazato (信州酒場 山里) is an izakaya on the 2nd floor at 1-4-2 Chuo, about a 3-minute walk from Matsumoto Station. Its official page says more than half of its roughly 80 dishes are local food from across Nagano and wild game, including dishes made with meat from its own hunter. From October 1, 2026, it is open 16:00 to 22:30 (it announced the change on Instagram), and the official page lists no regular closing day, with occasional closures. Call +81-263-88-8645 if you want to be sure of a table.

Official post from Shinshu Sakaba Yamazato (@yamazato_sinsyuusakaba) on Instagram

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From Yamazato's own English post: the shop serves bear, venison, wild boar and rabbit, and invites visitors to Nagano to try them. Open the post on Instagram

My visit

I went in August 2024. I'm honestly not a fan of insects in daily life, but I wanted to try it as a food culture that has been around for a long time. I had three kinds:

  • Zazamushi (ざざ虫): strongly bitter, but it goes well with sake.
  • Kaiko (蚕, silkworm pupae): creamy.
  • Inago (イナゴ, grasshoppers): like shrimp with the shell on, seasoned as tsukudani (simmered in sweet soy sauce). The legs were taken off, so they were easy to eat, and the seasoning was my favorite of the three.

Zazamushi in particular is a specialty of Ina (Nagano), but as the people who catch them get older, fewer people catch them, and it's one of the food cultures that is fading. The fried chicken I had was, of course, sanzokuyaki, the local specialty of Matsumoto (Nagano).

A navy noren curtain reading 信州名物 山里 hanging over a doorway, with a few steps up into the restaurant
The entrance of Shinshu Sakaba Yamazato. The noren curtain says 信州名物 山里 ("Shinshu specialties, Yamazato"). Photo taken by the site owner.Photo: the site owner · All rights reserved · Photo details

What zazamushi is: a 2022 press release about the Ina Valley explains that zazamushi is a name for the edible larvae of river insects such as caddisflies and stoneflies, caught in the Tenryu River only from December to February, and that the food culture is in decline as both the fishers and the insects decrease. That makes a plate here a rare chance. If insects aren't your thing either, inago is the easiest first bite: no legs, and a familiar sweet soy flavor. What the kitchen has changes, so ask the staff which insect dishes are on that day.

Izakaya Shinzan: gentle home-style food, until December 26, 2026

Closing on December 26, 2026. In its notice on Google Maps, Izakaya Shinzan says it will close for good on December 26, 2026, after 46 years since opening in 1980, because the owner is getting older. The same notice expects it to be busy from November with year-end parties (bonenkai, office and friends' parties held in December) and suggests coming earlier if you can.

Izakaya Shinzan (居酒屋 しんざん) is on the 1st floor at 1-2-11 Chuo, about a 3-minute walk from Matsumoto Station, and opens at 17:00. Its Google Maps listing describes counter seats facing the kitchen and private tatami rooms, with sashimi, basashi, robatayaki (grilled dishes) and local sake. Look for the red paper lantern with しんざん written on it. Phone: +81-263-36-3670.

My visit

I went in September 2024. Whatever I ate had a gentle flavor, and it was all delicious. I heard the owner is closing the shop in December 2026 because of his age, so if you're in Matsumoto (Nagano) before then, go while you can.

A small izakaya at night with a red paper lantern reading しんざん, a menu board and a bicycle parked outside
Izakaya Shinzan at night, a short walk from Matsumoto Station. Look for the red lantern with しんざん on it. Photo taken by the site owner.Photo: the site owner · All rights reserved · Photo details

Many izakaya in Japan add a small table charge with a starter dish called otoshi; see what otoshi is and why it's on your bill.

San: a wine-and-omakase night (book on TableCheck)

San (餐) is a small restaurant at 3-1-11 Chuo that serves seasonal Japanese food with wine. Its Instagram profile gives the hours as 18:00 to 23:00, and it posts the closing days for each month there. Since August 2026 it serves only the omakase course, which its TableCheck booking page lists as 7 courses for 9,900 yen (tax included) from November 1, 2026; the October 2026 autumn course is 13,200 yen. After the course you can add a closing dish such as rice cooked in an earthenware pot, or small plates. The shop's posts often name the fish it brings in from Kazama Suisan, a fish supplier in Aichi.

The restaurant looks like a private house from the street. The photos below include the entrance, so you know what to look for when you arrive. For how no-show rules work in Japan, see our guide to restaurant reservations.

Official post from San (@san_matsumoto) on Instagram

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Posted August 9, 2026: San shows a hirame (flounder) sashimi from Kazama Suisan in Aichi, lightly cured with kombu and served with irizake, a traditional sake-based seasoning. Open the post on Instagram

My visit

I went in January 2025. There is a sommelier, and they bring in delicious fish from elsewhere. It was delicious. The entrance looks like a private house and is hard to spot. For two of us, it came to about 35,000 yen.

A dark, house-like entrance at night with a lattice sliding door of frosted glass and a small sign plate on the wall
The entrance to San at night. It looks like the front door of a house, so look for this lattice door. Photo taken by the site owner.Photo: the site owner · All rights reserved · Photo details

After dinner: a bowl of ramen at Watari-dori

y/s kitchen Menshin Watari-dori (麺心 わたりどり) is a ramen shop at 1-2-12 Chuo, in the same area as Shinzan, known for tori paitan (a creamy chicken broth). It opens late, so it suits the end of a night out; check its hours before you go. For more ramen around here, see nine ramen shops in Matsumoto and Shiojiri (Nagano); for how ramen shops work, see our ramen guide.

My visit

I went after drinking, and it was the best bowl.

A white bowl of creamy chicken ramen with seared pork slices, a soft-boiled egg, green onions and red onion
Tori paitan (creamy chicken broth) ramen at Watari-dori, September 2024. Photo taken by the site owner.Photo: the site owner · All rights reserved · Photo details

Breakfast curry at Garden Hotel Matsumoto

Garden Hotel Matsumoto (ガーデンホテル松本) is at 1-15-46 Muraimachi-kita, about 15 minutes by car from Matsumoto Station or Matsumoto Castle and about 15 minutes on foot from JR Murai Station, with free parking. On its listing on the Japanese booking site Jalan, the hotel describes its breakfast of homemade bread and vegetable soup as a good match for the curry and says it is very popular.

My visit

The curry is delicious. I stayed there for business, but many of the guests are tourists. You can add breakfast, including the curry, for an extra charge when you check in.

A breakfast tray with curry and rice in a dark bowl, a bread roll on a white plate, a cup of soup with meatballs and spoons laid across the front
Breakfast curry with a bread roll and soup at Garden Hotel Matsumoto, November 2025. Photo taken by the site owner.Photo: the site owner · All rights reserved · Photo details

Breakfast at the Imai Megumi no Sato roadside station

Michi-no-Eki Imai Megumi no Sato (道の駅 今井恵みの里) is a roadside station, a government-registered rest stop with a farmers' market, at 886-2 Imai, Matsumoto (Nagano), outside the city center. Its official menu page lists a breakfast menu from 8:30 to 10:00 and lunch from 11:00 to 15:00, including tororo gohan (rice with grated yam, 500 yen), which is served at breakfast only. The restaurant is closed on Wednesdays (the next day when Wednesday is a holiday) and from December 31 to January 4, and is open every day from August 1 to December 30. Parking and toilets are open 24 hours.

My visit

This is the breakfast I had at the roadside station, at 8:31 on a January morning in 2025.

A breakfast set on a green tray: a bowl of rice, a bowl of miso soup with vegetables, a small bowl with grated yam and egg, and small side dishes
Breakfast at the Imai Megumi no Sato roadside station at 8:31 on a January morning, 2025. Photo taken by the site owner.Photo: the site owner · All rights reserved · Photo details

Food words to know in Matsumoto (Nagano)

Words on local menus Japanese food words you may see on menus in Matsumoto (Nagano) Basashi, 馬刺し: horse sashimi, eaten with garlic and ginger. Sanzokuyaki, 山賊焼: chicken marinated with garlic and soy, then deep-fried. Inago, イナゴ: grasshoppers, seasoned as tsukudani. Zazamushi, ざざむし: larvae of river insects from the Tenryu River, caught in winter. Kaiko, 蚕: silkworm pupae. Omakase, おまかせ: a course chosen by the chef. 馬刺しBasashiHorse sashimi, with garlic and ginger 山賊焼SanzokuyakiGarlic-soy chicken, deep-fried イナゴInagoGrasshoppers, simmered in sweet soy ざざむしZazamushiRiver insect larvae, caught in winter 蚕KaikoSilkworm pupae おまかせOmakaseA course chosen by the chef
Based on the city's official tourism site (Visit Matsumoto), a 2022 press release on zazamushi and our owner's visit (checked October 2026).

Basashi is raw meat. If you are pregnant, or have been told to avoid raw meat or fish, choose a cooked dish instead. If you have a food allergy, see our guide to food allergies in Japan before you order. The legal drinking age in Japan is 20.

Make a day of it: the castle and Kamikochi (Nagano)

Matsumoto Castle is in the same city center, so a castle visit and dinner fit into one afternoon and evening: see what to expect inside Matsumoto Castle. If you're heading into the mountains the next day, read how to get to Kamikochi (Nagano) by bus or taxi first.

Last reviewed: October 24, 2026. Hours, prices and closing days change. Please check the official pages before you go.

References

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